For centuries, children in Japanese villages were kept away from riverbanks with the same tale: a kappa 河童 lives in the water. Turtle-shelled, green-skinned, carrying water in the hollow atop its head, this imp is folklore’s most mischievous creature; it loves wrestling, has terrible manners, and pulls in anyone who strays too close. But everyone knew its one weakness: the kappa cannot resist a cucumber.

So well known was this that people are said to have tossed cucumbers into the river before wading in; while the imp busied itself with its favorite fruit, the humans cooled off in peace. The cucumber was the kappa’s bribe. The sushi counter adopted the tale, and the slender cucumber roll took its name from that green-loving glutton: kappa maki 河童巻き.

For a restaurant named after water, the only sushi named after a water spirit was always going to hold a special place.

The bite itself, contrary to the tale, is perfectly well behaved: cool cucumber, vinegared rice, crisp nori. In summer heat it goes down like a glass of water. It is one of the plainest bites on our menu; but no name carries an older story.